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🌊 The Ocean Library · GP clinical topic

Acne Vulgaris

Reviewed and updated by practising UK GPs, overseen by our Clinical Advisory Officer. Last updated 28 Sep 2026.

🧭 When to suspect

Acne vulgaris is a chronic inflammatory disorder of the pilosebaceous unit, driven by four processes acting together:

• Increased sebum production.

• Abnormal follicular keratinisation.

• Colonisation with Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes).

• Inflammation.

Acne usually begins around puberty (from about age 12) and most often affects the face, though the chest, shoulders and upper back are commonly involved.

Lesions are characteristically polymorphic – a mixture of non-inflammatory comedones (blackheads and whiteheads) and inflammatory papules, pustules, nodules and cysts.

Suspect acne in any adolescent or young adult with this pattern, and ask about oily skin, a family history of acne, and aggravating factors.

The two skills that matter most in primary care:

• Grade severity accurately, because management is driven almost entirely by severity.

• Recognise the impact on mental health, which does not track the appearance of the skin.

Lesion pattern NICE classification First-line approach
Predominantly comedones with few papules/pustules Mild to moderate (≤34 inflammatory lesions, ≤2 nodules) 12-week course of a topical fixed-combination
Widespread papules and pustules, ± a few nodules Mild-to-moderate or moderate-to-severe by lesion count Topical fixed-combination, ± oral antibiotic if moderate-to-severe
Numerous inflammatory lesions, ≥3 nodules, cysts or scarring Moderate to severe (≥35 inflammatory lesions or ≥3 nodules)

• Topical + oral antibiotic

• Consider referral and isotretinoin

Sudden ulcerating/crusting nodules with systemic upset Acne fulminans Same-day on-call dermatology (within 24 hours)

Most acne settles by the early-to-mid twenties, but it can persist into the thirties and forties. A first presentation, or treatment-resistant acne, in an adult woman should prompt thought about hyperandrogenism and polycystic ovary syndrome (PCOS).

🧠 Clinical pearl

• Comedones are the diagnostic hallmark of acne.

• If a patient has inflammatory papules and pustules but no comedones, question the diagnosis.

• Rosacea brings flushing and telangiectasia (and no comedones).

• Perioral dermatitis characteristically spares the skin immediately around the lips.

• Monomorphic pustules in someone on long-term antibiotics suggest Gram-negative folliculitis.

Source: NICE NG198


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